By engaging with its past, Piccoli put Valentino firmly in the context of now - and he wasn’t the only designer this season to do so.įor the third iteration of Jean Paul Gaultier’s project, in which a different designer is given the reins of the brand’s couture house, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing created a collection that spoke to Gaultier’s most memorable moments (including an ode to his breast-baring dress for Madonna at the 1992 amfAR Gala). The casting felt as varied and well-considered as the pieces themselves and there was a smattering of men’s haute couture that offered beautifully-restrained tailoring and moments of pause between the more showstopping looks. Right: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall Couture 22.īut between the glamour and drama, the message at Valentino was one of individuality and diversity. Whether it was through ideas of rebirth and regeneration at Christian Dior, reconciling the past with the present and looking to the future at the likes of Valentino, Schiaparelli and Olivier Rousteing for Jean Paul Gaultier, discussions of technology and metamorphosis at Iris Van Herpen or examining the cult (and cache) of celebrity at Balenciaga, the Fall season delivered drama and finesse in equal measure, and marked something of a comeback for this, most hallowed of fashion weeks. It is part of what makes couture so compelling - even if you aren’t a customer.įor Fall 2022, Haute Couture felt like it had returned with purpose from two years of disruption. ![]() And yet, they also often make the clearest comment on our culture, their one-of-a-kind, handcrafted nature allowing designers to tell the kind of story they can’t with ready-to-wear. Really, the collections unveiled over the course of the week feel more like art exhibitions than clothes, used to showcase the creative prowess of the world’s foremost fashion houses. ![]() On the one hand, the pay-to-play nature of haute couture exemplifies its exclusivity (most pieces carry price tags in the hundreds of thousands of dollars), while on the other, it offers an expression of fashion at its most artisanal. The commerce-art dichotomy that lies at the heart of high fashion is never more present than during Haute Couture Week.
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